Materials & Design
Types of Landscape Edging Compared: Curbing vs. Stone vs. Steel vs. Paver vs. No-Dig
The short answer
The best landscape edging depends on the job: natural spade-cut edges suit informal beds and cost nothing but time, steel and aluminum give the cleanest permanent line, concrete curbing shapes freely and lasts decades when installed with control joints, and stone or paver edging pairs best with hardscaping. In Wisconsin, avoid thin plastic no-dig edging — freeze-thaw pushes it out of the ground every spring.
Key takeaways
- Thin plastic no-dig edging is the most common edging mistake in Wisconsin. Freeze-thaw heaving lifts it out of the ground every spring, so it looks worse each year and needs constant resetting.
- Steel and aluminum edging give the thinnest, cleanest permanent line, resist frost movement well, and can be mowed over once installed flush with the turf.
- A natural spade-cut edge costs nothing but labor and can follow any curve, but it must be re-cut once or twice a season to keep its crisp separation between bed and lawn.
- Poured concrete curbing forms continuous custom shapes and lasts for decades, but it must be installed with control joints or it cracks under Wisconsin freeze-thaw stress.
- Stone, boulder, and paver edging is effectively permanent and integrates best when a bed sits against a patio, walkway, or retaining wall.
- Rock mulch poured over landscape fabric with no real edge becomes a weed bed within a few years, because soil and seeds collect on top of the fabric.
Edging is the detail that decides whether a landscape reads as finished or unkempt, and it is the first thing that fails when it is done cheaply. A crisp line between bed and lawn makes an ordinary planting look intentional; a wavy, half-buried strip of plastic makes an expensive planting look neglected.
This guide compares the edging options that actually make sense for southeastern Wisconsin yards — natural spade-cut, steel and aluminum, concrete curbing, paver and brick, and natural stone — and it is honest about the one option, thin plastic no-dig edging, that keeps disappointing homeowners in Sheboygan County every spring. The comparison is by durability, look, and maintenance, because those are the trade-offs that outlast any single season.
What is the best landscape edging?
There is no single best landscape edging — the right choice depends on the bed, the look you want, and how much maintenance you will tolerate. Steel and aluminum win for a clean permanent line, natural spade-cut edges win for informal free-form beds, and stone or paver edging wins where a bed meets hardscaping. Thin plastic no-dig edging is the option to avoid in Wisconsin.
Every edging type answers three questions differently: how long it lasts, how it looks, and how much upkeep it demands. A homeowner who wants a sharp modern line and never wants to think about it again should look at steel. Someone with sweeping curved beds who does not mind a seasonal touch-up may be happiest with a simple spade-cut edge and no material at all.
What ties the good options together is that they either resist frost movement or are re-established on purpose each season. What sinks the bad option — thin plastic edging staked into the soil — is that it does neither. The sections below break down each choice, then give a step-by-step way to match an edging type to your specific beds.
Landscape edging types compared
The five edging types worth considering in Wisconsin are natural spade-cut, steel or aluminum, concrete curbing, paver or brick, and natural stone. They range from zero-material spade-cut edges that need seasonal re-cutting to permanent stone borders that never move. The table below compares them by lifespan, mow-over ability, look, and installation difficulty.
Comparison of the edging options that hold up in southeastern Wisconsin, ranked roughly from least to most permanent.
| Edging type | Lifespan | Mow over? | Look | DIY difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Natural spade-cut edge | Re-cut each season | Yes | Soft, informal, free-form | Easy but recurring |
| Steel / aluminum | 20+ years | Yes, if set flush | Thin, clean, modern | Moderate |
| Concrete curbing (poured) | Decades | Yes, if mow strip | Continuous, custom shapes | Professional install |
| Paver / brick | Decades | Sometimes | Structured, traditional | Moderate to hard |
| Natural stone / boulder | Effectively permanent | No | Rugged, organic | Hard |
| Thin plastic (no-dig) | 1–3 seasons in WI | No | Degrades quickly | Easy |
Thin plastic no-dig edging is included for comparison only. In a freeze-thaw climate it is not recommended, for the reasons explained in the next section.
Why does plastic landscape edging keep popping up?
Plastic landscape edging pops up because Wisconsin soil freezes and thaws repeatedly through winter and spring, and each freeze cycle expands the ground and lifts anything shallowly anchored in it. Thin plastic edging held by short stakes has almost nothing resisting that upward pressure, so it works its way out of the soil a little more with every thaw.
Frost heave is the same force that cracks driveways and tilts fence posts. Water in the soil expands roughly nine percent when it freezes, and when it does this again and again over a Wisconsin winter, it ratchets shallow objects upward. Plastic edging staked two or three inches deep is exactly the kind of object it defeats.
By the second spring, a plastic border is usually wavy, half-lifted, and pulling away from the bed line it was supposed to define. Homeowners then spend an afternoon every year stomping it back down, which never fully works. This is why the material that looks cheapest at the store is often the most expensive over five years, measured in both replacement and frustration. Edging that either flexes deep into the soil, like steel, or is renewed on purpose, like a spade-cut edge, sidesteps the problem entirely.
A closer look at each edging option
Each edging material fits a different situation. Natural spade-cut edges suit informal curved beds, steel suits clean permanent lines, concrete curbing suits custom shapes and continuous borders, paver and brick suit traditional structured looks, and natural stone suits rugged beds tied to hardscaping. Matching the material to the bed matters more than picking a single favorite.
What each option does well, and where it struggles.
- Natural spade-cut edge
- A clean trench cut at an angle between bed and lawn, with no material at all. It costs only labor, follows any curve, and is the classic look on well-kept properties. The trade-off is upkeep — it needs re-cutting once or twice a season as grass creeps back in. It is often installed as part of a mulching service so the fresh edge and new mulch are done together.
- Steel and aluminum edging
- Thin metal strips staked below grade that give the sharpest, most durable line available. Set flush with the turf, a mower wheel can ride right over it. Steel eventually develops a subtle rust patina; aluminum stays bright. Both flex with the soil instead of fighting it, which is why they survive Wisconsin winters where plastic does not.
- Concrete curbing
- Continuous concrete borders, often extruded on site, that can be shaped into any curve and colored or stamped. Curbing lasts for decades and stops grass runners cold. The critical detail in a freeze-thaw climate is control joints — planned breaks that let the concrete crack where you choose rather than randomly. This is a professional installation, not a weekend project.
- Paver and brick edging
- Individual pavers or bricks set on a compacted base along the bed line, giving a structured, traditional border that coordinates with a paver patio or walkway. Done right it lasts for decades; done without a proper base it shifts and separates through frost cycles, so the base work matters as much as it does for a patio.
- Natural stone and boulder edging
- Fieldstone, cut stone, or boulders that form a rugged, organic border. Effectively permanent and impossible to knock out of line, stone edging is the natural partner to retaining walls and slope plantings. You cannot mow over it, so beds usually get a mulch or gravel buffer along the inside.
How many types of landscape edging are there?
There are eight broad types of landscape edging: natural spade-cut, steel, aluminum, plastic or composite, poured concrete curbing, precast concrete edgers, paver or brick, and natural stone or boulder. Timber is a ninth, older option that has largely fallen out of use because it rots. Within each type there are dozens of products, but every one of them behaves like its category in Wisconsin freeze-thaw.
The full taxonomy, grouped by how each type is made and how it behaves in the ground.
- 1. Natural spade-cut (no material)
- A trench cut between bed and lawn. No product at all — just a maintained edge that is re-cut each season.
- 2. Steel
- Rolled or flat steel strip, usually 4 to 6 inches tall, staked below grade. The most durable metal option; develops a rust patina over time.
- 3. Aluminum
- Same form as steel but lighter and non-rusting. Slightly easier to bend by hand into tight curves, slightly less rigid over long straight runs.
- 4. Plastic and composite
- Includes thin no-dig strips, rolled poly edging, and heavier commercial-grade composite. Only the heavy, deep-set products hold up to Wisconsin frost.
- 5. Poured concrete curbing
- Continuous concrete extruded on site by a curbing machine, shaped and colored to order. Permanent when installed with control joints.
- 6. Precast concrete edgers
- Individual scalloped or straight concrete units set end to end. Cheaper than poured curbing but each unit can heave independently unless set on a compacted base.
- 7. Paver and brick
- Clay brick or concrete pavers laid as a soldier course on a compacted base. Coordinates with paver patios and walkways.
- 8. Natural stone and boulder
- Fieldstone, cut limestone, or boulders set as a border. Effectively permanent and the natural partner to retaining walls and slopes.
Paver edging vs. concrete curbing vs. landscape edging: what is the difference?
Paver edging is a row of individual pavers or bricks laid on a compacted base; concrete curbing is one continuous ribbon of concrete poured or extruded in place; and "landscape edging" usually means a thin strip of steel, aluminum, or plastic set into a trench. Paver edging matches paver hardscaping, curbing gives the longest unbroken line, and strip edging is the thinnest and least visible.
The three get confused because they all separate a bed from a lawn, but they are built completely differently. Paver edging is modular. Each unit sits on a compacted aggregate base like a miniature patio, and because the units are independent, one can be lifted and reset if it ever shifts. It is the right answer when the bed sits beside a paver patio or walkway, because the same material continues into the border. The base work matters as much as it does for the patio itself.
Concrete curbing is monolithic. A curbing machine extrudes a continuous concrete ribbon that can follow any curve, and it is stamped, colored, or left plain. Nothing else gives an unbroken line that long. Its one vulnerability is freeze-thaw cracking, which control joints manage. Strip edging — steel, aluminum, or plastic — is the thinnest option, set almost invisibly at grade so the eye sees only the line between mulch and turf. For most planting beds not tied to hardscape, steel strip edging is the cleanest choice; for beds against pavers, paver edging; for long decorative borders and commercial frontage, curbing.
No-dig edging vs. regular edging
No-dig edging is a thin plastic or composite strip held by short spikes driven through it into the soil surface, while regular edging is set into a trench so most of its height sits below grade. No-dig edging installs in an afternoon with no digging, but in Wisconsin it heaves out within a few winters. Trenched edging takes more work once and stays put for decades.
The appeal of no-dig edging is obvious: unroll it, hammer in spikes, done. The problem is that everything holding it in place is within the top two or three inches of soil, which is exactly the layer that freezes, expands, and thaws dozens of times each Wisconsin winter. Each cycle lifts the spikes a fraction. By the second spring the strip is wavy and half out of the ground, and by the third it is being stomped back down every few weeks.
Regular edging — steel, aluminum, or heavy composite set in a trench with four or more inches below grade — sits below the most active frost layer and flexes with the soil instead of being pushed out of it. It is more work on installation day and less work every day after. If a bed is temporary or the budget is truly minimal, no-dig has a place. For any permanent bed in Sheboygan County, trenched edging or a well-kept spade-cut edge is the better decision, and the difference shows up by year two.
Plastic vs. metal vs. stone edging: benefits and trade-offs
Plastic edging is the cheapest and easiest to install but has the shortest life in a freeze-thaw climate. Metal edging (steel or aluminum) gives a thin, permanent, mow-over line that flexes with frost and lasts twenty years or more. Stone edging is the most permanent and the most visually substantial, but cannot be mowed over and takes the most labor to set. Each wins on a different axis.
What each material does better than the other two, and what it gives up.
| Edging | Main benefit | Main drawback | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plastic | Lowest cost, fastest install, follows any curve | Heaves out in freeze-thaw; degrades in UV; looks temporary | Temporary beds, vegetable gardens, rental properties |
| Metal (steel / aluminum) | Thin invisible line; mow-over; 20+ year life; flexes with frost | Needs a trench; can bend if hit by equipment; steel rusts (patina) | Permanent planting beds, modern landscapes, clean lawn-to-mulch lines |
| Stone | Permanent; substantial look; ties to walls and slopes | Cannot mow over; heavy; labor-intensive; needs a base for cut stone | Beds beside retaining walls, boulder gardens, rustic and naturalistic yards |
Concrete curbing and paver edging sit between metal and stone — permanent like stone, mow-over like metal when a mow strip is included — and are covered in the sections above.
How to choose landscape edging for your yard
Choose landscape edging in five steps: define the look you want, match the material to how the bed will be maintained, account for Wisconsin freeze-thaw, coordinate the edging with any nearby hardscaping, and decide honestly how much seasonal upkeep you will actually do. Following that order prevents the most common outcome — buying cheap edging that fails and gets replaced within a few years.
Work through these in order before buying any material.
Decide the look first
Soft and informal points toward a natural spade-cut edge. Sharp and modern points toward steel. Traditional and structured points toward paver or brick. Rugged and organic points toward stone. Settle the aesthetic before comparing products, because it eliminates most of the field immediately.
Match the material to maintenance reality
A spade-cut edge looks great but only if it is re-cut each season. If that will not happen, choose a set-and-forget material like steel or curbing instead. The best edging is the one that still looks right given how much upkeep you will genuinely do.
Account for freeze-thaw
Rule out thin plastic no-dig edging for permanent beds in Wisconsin. Favor materials that flex with the soil (steel), are renewed on purpose (spade-cut), or are installed with control joints and proper base (concrete, paver).
Coordinate with nearby hardscaping
If the bed sits against a patio, walkway, or retaining wall, echo that material in the edging so the elements read as one design. Paver edging beside a paver patio, or stone edging beside a stone wall, looks deliberate rather than added on.
Be honest about upkeep before you buy
The cheapest material is rarely the cheapest edge over five years once replacement and reworking are counted. Choose the option whose maintenance you will actually keep up with, and it will look better far longer than a cheaper one you neglect.
Common landscape edging mistakes to avoid
The most common landscape edging mistakes are using thin plastic edging in a freeze-thaw climate, laying rock over landscape fabric without a real edge, skipping the base under paver or stone edging, and installing concrete curbing without control joints. Each one looks fine at first and fails within a few Wisconsin seasons.
These are the failures that show up a year or two after installation, not on day one.
- Thin plastic edging in a freeze-thaw climate
- The single most common mistake in Wisconsin. It heaves out of the ground every spring and looks worse each year. Covered in full above.
- Rock over landscape fabric with no edge
- Decorative rock poured onto fabric without a defined border becomes a weed bed within a few years. Soil, leaves, and seeds collect on top of the fabric and sprout, and the rock migrates into the lawn. A real edge and periodic maintenance are what keep a rock bed clean.
- Skipping the base under paver or stone edging
- Paver and stone borders set directly on soil shift and separate through frost cycles, exactly like a patio built without a base. The compacted base is what keeps the line true over the years.
- Concrete curbing without control joints
- Continuous concrete with no planned joints cracks randomly under freeze-thaw stress. Control joints let it crack where it will not be seen, which is the difference between a curb that ages gracefully and one that looks broken.
Landscape edging and curbing in Sheboygan County
In Sheboygan, Sheboygan Falls, Plymouth, Kohler, Howards Grove, and Elkhart Lake, the edging that holds up is the edging that accounts for heavy clay soil and a Lake Michigan winter of repeated freeze-thaw. Steel strip edging and natural spade-cut edges are the most common choices on residential beds here, concrete curbing is popular on larger frontages, and stone edging pairs with the retaining walls that sloped lakeshore lots so often need.
Sheboygan County soils are predominantly heavy clay, which holds water and expands more when it freezes than sandy or loamy ground. That makes frost heave stronger here than in much of the state, and it is why the thin plastic edging sold at every big-box store on Taylor Drive fails faster in a Sheboygan yard than the packaging suggests. It is also why the compacted base under paver or precast edging is not optional: clay that is not compacted and drained will move the units.
Local conditions also shape what looks right. Many lots in Sheboygan Falls, Kohler, and along the lake bluff are sloped, so beds are already framed by block or stone retaining walls, and stone or paver edging that echoes the wall reads as part of one design. On flatter lots in Howards Grove, Plymouth, and the city of Sheboygan, a crisp steel line or a maintained spade-cut edge against fresh mulch is the classic look. Concrete curbing shows up most on commercial frontages and on larger properties where a long continuous border would otherwise mean hundreds of feet of trenching.
How Beyond Landscaping handles bed edging
Beyond Landscaping installs crisp bed edges as part of its mulching service and builds stone, paver, and boulder edging as part of hardscaping and planting design across Sheboygan County. The right edging is matched to each bed and to any nearby patio, walkway, or retaining wall, so the finished landscape reads as one intentional design rather than separate pieces.
Every mulch installation includes cutting clean, defined bed edges, because fresh mulch against a ragged edge only does half the job. For beds that call for something permanent, stone and paver edging is built on a proper base so it holds its line through Wisconsin winters, and it is chosen to coordinate with the hardscaping it sits beside.
Beyond Landscaping serves Sheboygan Falls, Sheboygan, Plymouth, Kohler, Howards Grove, Elkhart Lake, Glenbeulah, and Waldo. If you are weighing edging options for a planting bed, a slope, or a border along a patio, the material choice is made with the whole design in mind — and with how the edge will hold up over the next ten winters, not just how it looks the day it goes in.
Sources and references
Frequently asked questions about landscape edging
What is the longest-lasting landscape edging?
Natural stone and boulder edging lasts the longest — effectively permanent, since it does not rot, rust, or heave out of position. Among installed materials, steel and aluminum edging and properly poured concrete curbing both last well over twenty years in Wisconsin. The shortest-lived common option is thin plastic no-dig edging, which often fails within one to three seasons in a freeze-thaw climate.
Why does my plastic landscape edging keep coming out of the ground?
Plastic landscape edging comes out of the ground because of frost heave. Wisconsin soil freezes and thaws repeatedly through winter and spring, and water expands about nine percent each time it freezes, lifting shallowly staked objects a little more with every cycle. Thin plastic edging held by short stakes has almost nothing resisting that upward force, so it works its way out and looks worse each year.
Can you mow over steel landscape edging?
Yes. Steel and aluminum landscape edging is designed to be installed flush with the top of the turf, so a mower wheel can ride directly over it and cut the grass right to the bed line. This eliminates the separate string-trimming pass that raised edging requires, which is one reason metal edging is popular for low-maintenance, clean-lined landscapes.
What is a natural spade-cut edge?
A natural spade-cut edge is a clean, angled trench cut by hand or machine between a planting bed and the lawn, with no edging material installed at all. It creates a crisp separation that keeps mulch in and grass out, follows any curve, and costs only labor. The trade-off is that it must be re-cut once or twice each season as the surrounding grass grows back into it.
Do I need edging if I use landscape fabric?
Yes. Landscape fabric suppresses weeds coming up from below, but it does nothing to hold a bed line or stop material from migrating into the lawn. Rock or mulch laid over fabric without a defined edge spreads out, and over a few years soil and seeds collect on top of the fabric and grow weeds anyway. A real edge plus periodic maintenance is what keeps the bed clean, with or without fabric.
Does concrete landscape curbing crack in Wisconsin?
Concrete landscape curbing can crack in Wisconsin if it is installed without control joints. Freeze-thaw stress will crack a continuous run of concrete somewhere, so professional installers add control joints — planned breaks that direct the cracking to inconspicuous spots. Installed correctly with proper joints and base, concrete curbing lasts for decades in a Wisconsin climate.
What are the benefits of plastic edging compared to metal or stone?
Plastic edging is the least expensive option, the fastest to install, and the easiest to bend around tight curves, which makes it reasonable for temporary beds, vegetable gardens, or a rental property. Its drawbacks are that it heaves out of the ground in a freeze-thaw climate like Wisconsin, becomes brittle in sunlight, and looks temporary. Metal edging costs more and needs a trench but lasts twenty years or longer and can be mowed over; stone is effectively permanent but heavy and cannot be mowed over.
What is the difference between paver edging and landscape edging?
Paver edging is a border of individual concrete pavers or clay bricks laid on a compacted base along the bed line, so it is wide, visible, and matches a paver patio or walkway. Landscape edging usually means a thin strip of steel, aluminum, or plastic set into a trench so that only a narrow line shows at the surface. Paver edging is the right match beside paver hardscaping; strip edging is the cleaner, less visible choice for a planting bed against lawn.
Is no-dig edging worth it?
No-dig edging is worth it only for a temporary bed or where the ground does not freeze. In Wisconsin, the short spikes that hold no-dig edging sit in the top few inches of soil, which is exactly the layer that freezes and thaws repeatedly all winter, so the strip works its way out of the ground within two or three seasons. Trenched steel or aluminum edging costs more effort on installation day but stays in place for decades.
What do professional landscapers use for edging?
Professional landscapers in Wisconsin most often use a maintained natural spade-cut edge on mulched planting beds, steel or aluminum strip edging where a permanent clean line is wanted, and paver or natural stone borders where a bed meets a patio, walkway, or retaining wall. Poured concrete curbing is common on commercial frontages and long decorative borders. Professionals rarely install thin plastic no-dig edging on a permanent bed because it fails in freeze-thaw.